New Shoes for Baby update...

So, its been about 2 years since I last put a rear tire on the FJR. Sadly, I've only put 5,604 miles on the feejer since last tire change. Sadder still, that's all the mileage I got out of the Bridgestone Battlax T30 EVO's, as I just replaced them preemptively today. I maybe could have stretched another 1,000 out of them? But I got circa 8,000 miles each out of the old Bridgestone Battlax 023's and those were less money. I'm religious about checking tire pressure, so maybe this is due to a bit more spirited riding (well, I've noticeably been wringing the throttle more aggressively), but I'll be watching this new set of Bridgestone Battlax T30 EVO closely for how they wear.

New shoes for baby...

Had a new rear tire shoe'd onto the FJR today: "Bridgestone T30 GT" in a 155/80-17, in prep for a Blue Ridge Parkway ride in a couple weeks. The T30 supercedes the usual BT-023's that I usually run and are supposed to offer better grip AND better mileage. I've been getting about 8,000mi each BT-023 rear, so I'm curious to see how these do. I'll do my best to check in with reports on wear and handling as I rack up the miles on these:

New rear Bridgestone T30 GT 155/80-17 tire
The old BT-023 had 8k+- on it, and was quite squared off. Its nice to have a round tire again!

DIY Carport...

Built a lean-to carport to protect Pillions newish Subaru after a couple of hailstorm scares. Here are the steps simplified, for inquiring minds:

1st step was to bolt the 2x8x10 ledger boards to the existing shed, using galvanized hardware.
The ledger board is where the top of the joists will attach to the shed.

Posts for the header were set 2 feet deep in gravel, square to the existing shed and 10.5 ft out.
The pencil line marks the point of level across all three posts as the grade falls from post 1 to post 3.
You can see the ref line a bit higher on the 2nd post in the bkgd

With 4x4 posts already set and notched, the 2x8 header that the joists will rest on is attached with galv. bolts.
The notch allows the weight of the header to rest completely on the post, rather than the attaching hardware

With the header and posts complete, the 2x6x12 joists can be run from the ledger board to the header.
I allowed for a 2 foot drop over 12 feet to shed snow/rain

Detail of the joist hangar used to attach this end of the joists to the ledger
Different hardware is used to attach the other end to the header

Here's the other end of the joist attached at the header.
These photos were mostly made after most of the build was completed, so here you also see
the purlins and the tin have been attached.

Heres a good detail showing the header, posts, notches, bracing, purlins and facia board and tin all tied together
Overhang will help protect all this from weather.

After the ledger, posts, header and joists are all attached, the purlins can be run perpendicular to the joists
The joists were spaced 24" on center, and so are the purlins in the opposite direction
The 1x4 purlins are what the tin roofing sheets will attach to.

Galvanized, shielded and gasketed screws are used to attach the roof
to the purlins. Screws are applied thru the "v" of the 5-v sheets to
reduce leakage in heavy rains. I almost got the lines straight.

I overlapped the tin sheets so that the laps all face east, as most storms come from the southwest.
The helps not give strong winds a leading edge to pry up the tin in a bad storm.

I installed a drip edge all around to help keep water from creeping back in over the woodwork

Bracing keeps the structure from racking back and forth during storms.
I mounted these flush in case I come back with an enclosed wall later.

Still need to add gravel for the floor, but testing the fit with my truck before rolling Pillions Subaru in here

Here's another view of the completed structure.

Night Sky...

It was a nice, cold, clear night in the woods Sunday night, so I ventured out and tried to capture the star field for the first time with my little olympus. I centered the view on Orion, as it was bright enough to manually focus on in the viewfinder.

10 sec exposure of the southern sky at 8pm, 20mm f/1.7, iso1600

Macro Flora...

Putting the vintage 1974 Micro-Nikkor through its paces at the Sarah P. Duke Gardens Greenhouses:

Most if not all of these were made at maximum magnification (1:2 before crop), so the subjects in each photo are about 36mm (1.4 inches) across...

More Photos after the break...

Ice Ice Baby...

There were a few interesting patterns formed by ice on my back deck, so I pulled out my 1974 55mm Micro Nikkor P•C macro lens this morning and made a few closeup snaps:

More after the break...

Back to the future...

Inspired by the recent work of Matthew Cicanese, I dug out my old circa 1974 55mm Micro Nikkor P•C macro lens, and slapped it onto the front of my Olympus EPL-2 mirrorless.
1974 meets 2011
Initial tests seem to indicate the 40 year old lens is very sharp and contrasty and plays well digitally. Here are two initial test shots, made just outside the backdoor of the studio where I work:

Lichen on a piece of oak bark, frame covers about 2" across

Clover and leaf detail shot at 1:1